Finally, we’ve come to our last full day in Honduras. We were off on our final big adventure – a snorkeling trip out to Cayos Cochinos, a pair of islands about 19 miles northeast of La Ceiba. Despite the looming dark clouds, the boat ride was fairly smooth as we headed out on the open water.
"La Tortuga" - Turtle Island
Our first stop was within swimming distance of one of the islands. Here, there was great snorkeling. The coral reef surrounding the area (known as the Meso-American Barrier Reef) is the second largest in the world! (The largest is Australia’s Great Barrier Reef). Our guide informed us that Japan previously held the title for second, but that title was gone after use of explosives, likely for fishing. But here, the water was clear and the reefs were healthy and teeming with fish.
Brain Coral
Lettuce Leaf Coral
There's a fish!
Staghorn Coral
More Brain Coral and an urchin
After a lovely bit of snorkeling, we were ready to head over to the next island for lunch and a little bit of birding. As we came closer to the island, we were absolutely mesmerized by the sights above us and on the edge of the island – 35 Magnificent Frigatebirds! These are one of our all time favorite species, and one that we miss dearly from our South Florida days. We had never seen so many, and definitely not in such close range. We were absolutely thrilled!
Oh, just a bunch of Mag Frigs sitting in a nearby tree
Close-up of some Juvenile Mag Frigs
Juv. Magnificent Frigatebird in Flight - Love that tail!
Adult Male Magnificent Frigatebird
We finally were able to momentarily pull ourselves away from the Frigatebirds while the island residents cooked up a fresh catch for lunch. Our guide for the trip then led us around the tiny island in search of Yucatan Vireos and their unique resident, the pink Boa Constrictor.
Freshest of fish lunches with plantains and rice and beans… Mmmmm….
Checkered-Skipper sp.
Fungi
The only pink boa we ended up seeing was the one the local children brought up to our boat upon arrival to have us tourists take pictures of it for tips. We didn’t partake in the activity, and wanted to find one on our own, but alas, it was a no go. However, we were quickly perked up by successfully finding Yucatan Vireos, which have a very limited range within the Caribbean coast and islands of Mexico, Belize and Honduras, as well as Grand Cayman and the Bay Islands.
Yucatan Vireo
Yucatan Vireo with a beetle?
Wild Almonds
After lunch, we once again spent our time adoring the Mag Frigs. One was perched on a pole the whole time we were there, allowing for close, still shots. At one point he was resting that big bill of his on the pole. I guess sometimes one just needs a little rest. Other mag frigs just kept flying by with their powerful, graceful flight.
Up Close and Personal
Just resting
We also saw some familiar faces. Sandwich Terns swooped by, and Brown Pelicans somehow delicately perched on the seemingly fragile palm fronds with their bulky bodies.
Sandwich Tern
A young Brown Pelican pondering life
We headed back to our lodge so completely satisfied with our beautiful day of snorkeling, deliciously fresh food, and amazing views of Mag Frigs.
Adult Male Magnificent Frigatebird skimming the water for food
Juvenile Magnificent Frigatebird
Magnificent Frigatebirds - So many and so close!!!
My favorite bird silhouette
The last outing we had to take advantage of was a night hike around the lodge. We had already seen our fair share of owls, so anything else would have just been icing on the cake. Well, we didn’t pick up any more owls, and no new mammals like we were hoping, unfortunately. But we did get a good listen of and ok looks at the Red-Eyed Tree Frogs as well as a Variegated Treefrog.
Red-Eyed Treefrog
Variegated Treefrog
Spider!
And we unexpectedly found a perching Great Black Hawk! It wasn’t an owl, but still a cool raptor to see from a decent distance! Another beautiful winged creature we somehow found in the darkness was a lovely Clearwing-Satyr of some sort. Its clear wings with just a touch of bright pink and bright blue eye spot was just so pretty.
Great Black Hawk
Blushing Phantom - a type of clearwing-satyr
Hummingbird nest
The next morning, we said goodbye to our beloved Lodge at Pico Bonito, sipping on delicious local coffee and watching the hummers and Olive-backed Euphonias buzz around us one last time. It was a trip we will never forget, and we left with amazing photos, but more importantly, amazing experiences.
Birding is a great hobby – it gets you outdoors, it’s relatively cheap, and it allows you to appreciate nature in such a great way. We birders love to watch and observe birds, and sometimes sightings can bring us the utmost joy. And then there are times when we can feel a little ache in our heart when we learn about species that are in trouble or on the decline, which oftentimes is due to habitat loss mostly caused by humans. We do our best to donate to conservation groups when we can or write letters to government officials pleading for reconsideration of some project that is sure to cause destruction of wildlife habitat. But sometimes we can still feel disconnected from the effort. That’s why it’s so great when one gets an opportunity to really get out there and physically do something that matters and be reassured by the conservation efforts of devoted individuals.
Royal Terns flying by stirring up an American Oystercatcher - Tomkins Island
View of a sandbar from Tomkins Island. I'm guessing mostly Royal Terns and Laughing Gulls made up those little white dots.
I had such an opportunity just yesterday when a group from the local Fish and Wildlife Service and a handful of volunteers set out to help maintain a suitable habitat for nesting shorebirds. Back in 2005, a group from the Savannah District Corps of Engineers constructed Tomkins Island, a 5-acre island built in the Atlantic Ocean between Georgia and South Carolina specifically as a habitat for bird nesting. Every year it needs a little maintenance to make it attractive to birds such as Royal Terns, Sandwich Terns, Least Terns, and American Oystercatchers. Well, I learned that terns, especially Least Terns, can be quite particular about their nesting grounds as they prefer very clear sandy/ rocky flat areas with little to no vegetation. Problems arise when beachgoers and off-road vehicles also like these areas, and they can often disturb and damage nesting sites. Least terns have also been known to go to flat rooftops covered in pebbles for nesting.
American Oystercatcher keeping a close eye on us
American Oystercatcher taking post on a rock
The local expert advised that the area hasn’t quite attracted the Least Terns, which are especially in need of nesting grounds. He advised that the larger Sandwich and Royal Terns can sometimes bully them out of breeding territory. However, good people are doing good work and trying their best to make a nice area for them all. A crew had already started the maintenance work, but there was still much to be done. A group of about a dozen of us were the second round of folks to do some landscaping work – pulling and raking any vegetation in sight, spraying herbicide on plants we couldn’t pull, and treating for fire ants (a danger to chicks).
A group of Brown Pelicans taking off
Brown Pelican Soaring
It was definitely hard work as the island had no shade and no bathrooms, not to mention temps in the high 70s/low 80s with almost no clouds. Luckily, there was a nice ocean breeze and no biting bugs in action. It was tough and my body could feel it later that day, and even today as all my muscles ache. But what gratifying work it was! I got my hands dirty and actually physically did something that will directly benefit birds.
A pair of American Oystercatchers with Brown Pelicans flying over
American White Pelicans amongst Brown Pelicans
It was such a rewarding experience, and I only wish Nick didn’t have that thing called "work" that kept him away. There were plenty of birds to draw my attention, but mostly I had to keep my head down and pull weeds. But I did stop every once in while to enjoy the sights and sounds of Brown Pelicans in breeding plumage, a nice little group of American White Pelicans (a first for the area for me), American Oystercatchers calling and flitting about, masses of Royal Terns squawking above us, and a number of smaller shorebirds such as Dunlin, Sanderlings, Ruddy Turnstones, Black-bellied Plovers and other small peeps feeding in the mud. I didn’t have my SLR camera with me, but luckily I was able to use my point-and-shoot to take pics.
Brown Pelican in breeding plumage
Brown Pelicans
The highlight of the day was definitely seeing a nest of what I believe to be American Oystercatchers. There laid 3 perfect little speckled eggs in a lovely little indention in the sand amongst larger rocks and lined with little pieces of white shells and rocks. What a sight to see, and so closely! It was definitely a great way to end a great day of satisfying, hard work.
Hard work pays off! The top surface is mostly cleared of vegetation, which we then threw below to be washed away by the surf.
American Oystercatcher Eggs in a shell-groomed nest amongst the rocks!
